Andover Food Establishments Thrive and Survive Through COVID

Resource sharing offset supply chain issues

By Jeffery Dickinson
One of The Refinery’s owners, AJ Giglio, poses with his classic truck. The Refinery is this summer’s venue for Ricky’s Car Cruise. Photo: Jeffery Dickinson

Andover is fortunate to have within our relatively small town multiple restaurants that provide a variety of food and serving arrangements. With COVID-19 vaccination rates going up in the state, as predicted by public health professionals, people are beginning to return to the public spaces they enjoy. 

A recent series of interviews with the owners and staff of the town’s restaurants reflected on what they went through as businesses and how they are faring now that the pandemic is nearing its end here in New Hampshire. 

The variety of food service establishments range from sandwich counters in JJ’s Market and Deli and Circle K; pizza, sandwiches, and such at Pizza Chef and The Kitchen, full-on dining experience with the Blackwater Junction Restaurant, The Refinery; and Naughty Nellie’s Ice Cream Bar for dessert or anytime a sweet tooth starts talking.  

Most of the businesses reported significant supply chain issues with the regular ingredients and other products needed to run the restaurant not being available as needed, and prices escalating in almost all categories. The restaurants also had to adapt to meet the new health requirements and innovate to meet the needs of their customers.  

In light of the pandemic-induced economic slowdown, covering operating expenses from revenue and retaining staff during the slack period presented additional impediments to overcome. The restaurants in our town all made it through the worst of the COVID-19 times, and many report things are looking good going forward.

Supply Chains and Price Inflation

Like most businesses that rely on a constantly refreshing supply of goods and materials to operate, the restaurants all experienced supply interruptions for ingredients and prepared products, cleaning and packaging materials, and the odd specialty item they once found common.  On the whole they adapted to these shortages by being more efficient with the resources they could get and finding substitutes where appropriate. 

These disruptions led to some menu items changing or disappearing for the time being. Their costs of operation increased during the pandemic, and while price stability for many items may likely return, certain items will remain at the higher cost for the foreseeable future. 

The owners and managers generally stated that while they have tried to absorb most of the increase in operating costs, some of this additional financial burden will pass through to customers as increased prices on certain items.

Most of the businesses reported difficulties getting enough, and the right type, of packaging for takeout orders. Not only were there slowdowns in the packaging industry due to the pandemic, but the widespread shift over the past year across the entire country to takeout services has increased demand on an already scarce commodity. 

However, as the people and businesses of Andover tend to cooperate, particularly in tough situations, a few of the restaurants noted they loaned packaging materials and certain food and drink products among themselves so that everyone could try to maintain their individual level of customer service. The restaurants all indicated that maintaining as much normalcy as possible in their exchanges with customers was the least they could do for the folks who ventured out to support local businesses during the worst of the pandemic. 

As the pandemic abates here, operations are returning to a more recognizable situation, with indoor dining available and the need to limit direct contact with customers no longer a priority. 

Processes within the restaurants also changed as items once thought crucial became scarce, forcing them to adopt different techniques and procedures for preparing and serving their menu. 

One such item are the gloves almost ubiquitously used in the kitchens for every task. The supply of gloves in the market was reduced, with prices increasing by five times for some types. Two different chefs mentioned how the “old-school” procedure to just keep washing your hands all day long was always adequate and had continued, even with the increased use of gloves. 

The shortage of gloves brought about a re-thinking of why some practices have changed over time. In the case of gloves, the old method of thorough hand washing remains completely hygienically viable. Upon reflection, the seeming overuse of gloves did not necessarily improve the quality of service but did result in the increased single use and disposal of resources and increased cost of operation.

A disruption in a modern supply chain often results in an evaluation of current practice and sometimes a return to an older, but well-established, way of doing things. As a historical example of adapting to critical shortages, in Andover and across the Northeast, a significant number of households took up wood heating as an adaptation to the oil crisis of the 1970s. 

The disruptions experienced during the COVID-19 crisis may induce others to consider what natural or man-made resources are being used for various everyday activities, how far away it comes from, and if an alternative can be found. Changes that reduce consumption and are more financially- and resource-sustainable can also be found outside the restaurant sector; reflecting on these opportunities may create positive impacts within our local economy now and in the future.

Adaptation and Innovation

The restaurants adopted a variety of changes to their operations to remain open and as full-functioning as possible. Clear partitions were added, ventilation systems were upgraded to eliminate pathogens, touch-free delivery systems figured out and installed — the delivery window at the Pizza Chef is one such adaptation. 

Outdoor seating was increased in all the restaurants that had that capability before the pandemic, and this increased seating is likely to remain into the future. The Refinery went a step further, and through the Town’s formal planning process received the go-ahead to install a large tent with lots of new seating and additional outdoor play area. 

The adaptations instituted by all the restaurants helped get them through the pandemic by maintaining a basic level of service for their customers and increased health protection for both staff and customers.  There were additional expenses involved, but the improvements proved worthwhile, as none of the restaurants reported being responsible for any COVID-19 spreading event, and they all remained in business. 

The physical changes that are now incorporated into and around their buildings, specifically the outdoor seating arrangements, will likely over time provide a dividend of sorts through the increased amount and quality of seating for customers.

Operation and Employment Difficulties

The combined total of workers in the restaurants in town is approaching 100 people – people who live in Andover and the surrounding area. By remaining employed through the pandemic, these people continued to spend a portion of their income at other businesses in town, as they always had.

Restaurant workers are a sizable portion of the workforce that directly contribute to our town’s economy, and had they been laid-off there would have been an additional strain on the local economy. The owners and managers made a special effort to accommodate staff needs and worked to retain them as best they could.  

Most of the restaurants are looking for help these days. While the pandemic and economic slowdown has created havoc in many sectors of the economy, employment opportunities are growing in New Hampshire as we head into the summer season. While lower-paying positions are always difficult to fill, the owners and managers report that people are still interested to work in the sector. 

The success local businesses have in sustaining their operations in the months ahead will likely factor into any increase in the lowest salary levels. Most business owners know employees need a livable wage to remain with a company, or within a particular business sector. The restaurants understand this pressure and are trying to address the issue based on their unique business plans. 

 

Government Help

The restaurant owners in general felt the support provided by the federal government through special programs, such as the Paycheck Protection Plan, were timely and important components for remaining intact as a business.  While the businesses did all they could individually, and in some cases collectively, at the local level, the federal government’s existence and readiness to step in when it mattered lessened the harm and facilitated the recovery. 

The cooperation and compromise shown on many levels by individuals and institutions could also be considered for reflection as the people and businesses in town move out of this pandemic.